MARSCIANO - OLIO, VINO E TERRECOTTE

Another weekend, another festa! Really there are many, many choices each weekend, but when there’s a festa right down the road, why go any further? So we visited Marsciano for their “Olio, Vino e Terrecotte” celebration last weekend. We didn’t visit the terracotta museum, but concentrated on - what else? – the food! Olive oil, wine, sausages and more.






























There are more photos on our FLICKR PAGE, in the folder entitled “Marsciano - Olio, Vino e Terrecotte”.

NESTOR'S PIZZERIA - COMING SOON TO A LOCATION NEAR US!!!!

Last spring I wrote about the sad last day at Nestor's Pizzeria, and the one good thing about that night (other than the pizza!), was that Giuseppe and Mara told us they'd be re-opening in a new location right across from the hospital in Marsciano.

We ran into Giuseppe not long after we got back to Italy in May and he told us that the bureaucracy was taking longer than expected, and taking into account the fact that nothing happens in August, he thought they'd be open sometime in September. And then one day we drove past the storefront that was to have been the new pizzeria and there was an insurance agency there! Of course we had no idea what had happened, but we were still concerned.

I knew that eventually we'd run into someone who'd know what was going on, but today we had all our questions answered by Giuseppe himself. As we drove through Marsciano today we spotted his truck parked near the hospital and looked towards the site that was now the insurance office. We didn't see anything going on there but we did notice some work going on where the florist shop used to be, right next to the Arab butcher shop. And then we saw Giuseppe! And then we saw a big sign in the window, announcing that Nestor's Pizzeria was opening soon! Hurrah!

Giuseppe told us that they couldn't get the necessary permits for an oven at the now-an-insurance-office location, but that today was the first day of work at this location! We're so happy for all concerned....Giuseppe, Mara and their family, and for all their distraught customers who've been anxiously awaiting the grand reopening! Great pizza is on it's way back to Marsciano!

MOVIES IN MARSCIANO

Last night we drove down to Marsciano to watch a movie. I guess I should have posted about this sooner, but anyway, better late than never, right? For all of July and August, on every day but Monday, you can watch a movie under the stars in Marsciano at 9:30 each evening. "Sex and the City" and "Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull"have already been shown, but coming up are "The Incredible Hulk" and "The Dark Knight", as well as other recent movies. I expect they'll all be dubbed in Italian, but last night's film, "Shine A Light", a Martin Scorcese film about a benefit concert the Roling Stones did back in 2006, didn't need any translation at all!

A FARMER'S MARKET IN MARSCIANO

Good news for us! Every Saturday morning Marsciano will host a farmer's market featuring local produce! Although we love our weekly market on Mondays, this Saturday market will not only support our local community of small farmers, but we'll also get the freshest produce available....and probably save money too! I bought four eggplants at the market on Saturday, and while they were small, the cost was even smaller....80¢ for all four! If you're in the area on Saturday morning, stop by the old tobacco warehouse, located just behind the Coop supermarket in Marsciano for the freshest fruits and vegetables, as well as local wine and plants!

MARKET DAY IN MARSCIANO

PIZZA AT NESTOR'S - STORY BELOW

NESTOR'S PIZZERIA - STORY BELOW

PIZZA AT NESTOR'S 3 - STORY BELOW

A SAD NIGHT GETS EVEN SADDER

For all the years we’ve lived in Italy and all the time we vacationed here before, we’ve never run into the dreaded Guarda di Finanzia, the police who check to make sure you have a receipt when you leave a store or restaurant. What they’re really checking for is to make sure that the shop has rung up the sale, thus generating a record and ensuring that taxes will be paid. We’ve had shopkeepers run after us to make sure we had our receipt, even it was just for a bottle of water. Apparently the Guarda di Fianazia are not to be messed with!

So, fast forward to last week, when Belinda and Giacomo told us that our favorite pizzeria, Nestor’s, down in Marsciano, was going to move! Since we hadn’t been there for a few weeks it was the first we’d heard about the move, and of course we were concerned and confused. The reason for the move was supposedly because of new air pollution regulations requiring special filters for wood-burning ovens. Of course Nestor’s has a wood-burning oven, but we didn’t know who was responsible for the chimney. Belinda and Giacomo thought they might relocate to somewhere in the country, which wouldn’t be nearly as convenient for us, or any of their many, many regular customers.

I’d wanted to go to Nestor’s for our anniversary last weekend, but Art wanted to go to Angelino’s. When he happened to run into Angelino one day, and Angelino asked “How come I haven’t seen you for a while?”, Art told him we’d come up that weekend to celebrate. Since we didn’t know when Nestor’s would close for their move, we thought we’d better get down there ASAP, so tonight was the night.

I asked Mara if it was true they had to move, and she said yes. I asked if it was because of the new law but she said, no, they were moving because they’d been unable to come to an agreement with Pino, the former owner. If you’ve been reading this blog for a while you’ll remember that the pizzeria used to be called Ternana’s and was owned by Rita and Pino. We stumbled upon the pizzeria just four days after our move to San Venanzo, and it's been like a second home ever since. The Testatonda family had treated us so kindly, and when Mara and Giuseppe took over the pizzeria two years ago they were every bit as warm and welcoming.

Mara explained that they’d just been unable to come to terms with the Testatonda’s. The bank wouldn’t lend them what they needed to meet the asking price, and the counter-offer they’d made to the Testatonda’s was rejected. Mara said tonight was their last night! Sad as that was, we were both glad we’d decided to come.

We each enjoyed a pizza, and saved the leftovers in a box to take home. We had a bottle of water, a ½ liter of wine, and Mara brought some sweets with Art’s coffee. When it was time to go there were tears in Mara’s eyes. She’s put so much of herself into the pizzeria, and moving, even if it is just down the street, will be hard. I’m not even sure there will be tables at the new place….it looks pretty small from the outside. (BTW, it’s going to be right across the street from the hospital in Marsciano, right next to the small parking lot.)

So that was it. We thanked them for all their kindnesses and wished them well. They told us they hoped to be up and running in about two months, so we told them we’d call when we got back from the states. Once we were out the door Art told me that Giuseppe wouldn’t take any money for our dinner! Knowing that they’d be out of business at least temporarily, I felt terrible, but Art told me Giuseppe said the pizzas were their gift to us.

As we walked down the street to the car, two men stopped us and asked how much the pizza cost. Thinking they wanted something to eat, I said about €12. “Twenty euro?” they asked. No, much less than that we said….twelve, not twenty. And then it happened. One of the men flashed a badge and announced “Guarda di Finanzia”, and asked if we had a receipt. We explained that no, we didn’t…that it was the last night of the restaurant, that we were friends of the owners, and that our pizza had been a gift for being good customers for so many years. Although I can’t tell you exactly what their response was, I can tell you that it wasn’t good.

One of the men walked back to the restaurant and returned with Giuseppe. He told the same story we’d told, but apparently it wasn’t good enough. Mara came out, and was obviously upset. Although Giuseppe may have known what was coming next, we had no clue. One of the officers asked if we had our documents, and Art pulled out his Carta d’ Identita. The men started walking back towards the pizzeria and indicated we should follow.

The officers then took out an official looking pad of paper, and I asked if we were getting a ticket…a multa, I think it’s called. We were told no, but still, what was it they were writing, and why? And what would happen to Giuseppe and Mara? Would they have to pay a fine? I tried to explain that when they asked me what the pizza cost I thought they were just curious, maybe looking for someplace to eat. I felt as if the whole thing was my fault, that if we’d said the pizza was a gift in the first place we could have avoided all this, but Giuseppe assured me no, that wouldn’t have made any difference. Apparently when you have a business you’re just not allowed to make any sort of gift.

Once the man had finished with Art’s identity card he handed it back and dismissed us with his only English: “Byebye”….indicating we should go. I asked again if we had to pay a fine but was told no. I’m sure he was tired of hearing all four of us protest, explain and complain, but at least he kept his temper. If one or both of the guarde had been arrogant and/or hot tempered, things could have gotten really ugly really quickly. That’s about the only nice thing I can say about the men….they were both very patient and very even-tempered. They never raised their voices to us, or acted in a threatening manner. Everything was handled very matter-of-factly, but the very idea of it was so upsetting.

Mara and Giuseppe both tried to reassure us that it wasn’t our fault (and Giuseppe once muttered “This is what I get for being a nice guy”), but still, we felt responsible. Would a different answer have changed anything? Had we handled the situation incorrectly? And in the end, what would it mean for Giuseppe and Mara? Would they have to pay a fine? Could they challenge the fine? Of course we don’t know the answers to these questions, but hope to find out more details in the next few days.

Before we left the pizzeria I took a few pictures and a few quick movies. As soon as I’ve uploaded them I post them here. For now, we’re both sad and mad. We’re glad we made it in time to say goodbye, but very upset at how the evening ended. And that’s how a sad evening got even sadder.

YES IT'S TRUE...

...they really DO roast chestnuts on an open fire...or on a grill heated with a portable gas tank - whatever. Before we moved to Italy all I knew about chestnuts was what I'd heard Johnny Mathis sing about, then during our first winter here we discovered that roasted chestnuts are everywhere! I have discovered that I don't really like them, but I DO love the idea of them...the idea of people gathered around a warming fire, watching and waiting for the chestnuts to be ready, juggling the hot chestnuts from hand to hand as they try to eat them....well, it's just sort of a whole "It's a Wonderful Life" experience, don' t you think?

On Saturday afternoon we rode down to Marsciano to see a folk group dance at the small shopping center where the grocery store is. We picked up a few supplies, then Art took them to the car while I went in search of the promised performance. That's when I stumbled across the crowd waiting for the next batch of chestnuts to be ready, and I also saw a girl dressed in the period costume I'd seen on the poster.

We asked her when the performance would begin...the poster said 4:30 and of course by now it was close to 5:00. In true Italian style, no one seemed to know! None of the other dancers were there, and no stage or area had been set up for the performance. After a few minutes we decided not to wait...although I'm sure it would have been interesting, it just didn't seem worth standing around for an unknown period of time, waiting and wondering. I know this is Italy, and I know we're retired, but sometimes this oh-so-causal concept of time just doesn't work for us.